Gender, Makanan dan Identiti Orang Melayu

Abstract

Food provides a fluid symbolic medium in expressing statements about identity. This article examines the significance of food, food preparation and eating practices in the formation of gender identity. The study uses ethnographic data based on field observations and semi-structured interviews with Malays in Sungai Peria, Kelantan over several visits made between 1992 and 1998. It is argued that socialization process, roles, domain and food classification system may be viewed as a measure of gender inequality and women subordination in the household and the community. Their identity has been attained and manifested through food and eating practices. A clear demarcation is observed as regard to food between Malay women and men, both in terms of kinds of food, their quantity and quality. The organisation of domestic labour and marital role relationships confirm that cooking and feeding in the domestic domain continues to be a task done more by women than men. This task has been devalued and rendered invisible because of a dominant culture that views it as a natural role for women. Besides, women have been largely excluded from the public domain. Here, the public domain constitutes the world of men, while the women belong to the private domain. The dividing line between male and female identity and private and public roles tends to keep women in a subordinate position.

Key words: food, gender identity, Malay women

ABSTRAK

Makanan menyediakan medium simbolik dalam menyatakan kenyataan tentang identiti. Makalah ini membincangkan bagaimana makanan, penyediaan makanan dan amalan makan membentuk identiti gender. Ia diasaskan kepada data etnografi yang didapati melalui pemerhatian dan temubual separuh struktur dengan orang Melayu di Sungai Peria, Kelantan yang dilakukan beberapa kali di antara tahun 1992 dan 1998. Makalah ini menghujahkan bahawa proses sosiolisasi, peranan, domain dan sistem pengelasan makanan boleh dilihat sebagai ukuran ketidakseimbangan gender dan subordinasi wanita dalam rumah tangga dan komuniti. Identiti orang Melayu Sungai Peria terbentuk dan dimanifestasikan melalui makanan dan amalan makan. Terdapat perbezaan di antara makanan lelaki dan wanita, baik dari segi jenis, kuantiti dan kualiti. Organisasi kerja dalam lingkungan domestik masih terus menjadi tugas wanita. Tugas ini diberi nilaian yang rendah dan diangggap tidak penting kerana budaya mereka masih melihatnya sebagai peranan semulajadi wanita. Selain itu, wanita masih terus disisihkan daripada lingkungan umum. Lingkungan umum masih dianggap sebagai lingkungan lelaki, manakala lingkungan domestik pula dianggap sebagai lingkungan wanita. Pemisahan di antara identiti lelaki dan wanita serta peranan umum dan domestik telah meletakkan wanita dalam kedudukan yang subordinat.

Kata kunci: makanan, gender, identiti, wanita Melayu